Pancakes & syrup topped with bacon and coffee for breakfast today
I’ve only seen photos of the Natch so I was really excited to finally be there in person. It was a bit ambitious for a day trip, having a total of 8 portages round trip. As I made my way down the Petewawa River I couldn’t help but notice the countless waterlogged timbers still around – there were a few places like this on day one as well. I was hoping to see some wildlife today as so far I’ve been skunked. It didn’t take long to reach the first of four portages to the Natch – a short 130m trail by-passing a small swift. Given that this swift was smaller than the first one on day one, I ran it without hesitation or issue. I could probably paddle up it on the way back to the cabin. Around a corner and the river widens a bit featuring a grasslands island with a very large dead white pine. When this thing comes down it’ll be much harder to navigate the river. I kept a close eye on the campsites in the area, none of which looked particularly inviting but I didn’t get out to survey them properly. Around another corner and I could hear the rumble of Rollaway Rapids – a rather famous rapid for taking the life of a famous Canadian by the name of Blair Fraser. He was killed here back in 1968 when his canoe tipped in the rapid. The landing for P820 around Rollaway Rapids was easy to get to and the beginning of the trail seemed fairly straightforward. Of course, like many other portages in the area this trail becomes very rocky, very quick. Before that happened, there is a small off-chute of the trail leading to a small memorial to Blair Fraser. It’s worth checking out if you’re passing by. Between steep declines and immediate inclines, to misty-mossy rocks and wet roots, this trail was getting out of hand! I was glad to be travelling light, as taking the extra weight of a pack down this portage would just add to the madness. Finally, at the other end, I placed the boat in the river and pushed off towards the next rapid.
It is a truly incredible view from up here - looking upstream on the Petewawa River
Do you recognize this place? A portion of Bill Mason's film 'Waterwalker' was shot here
Such an impressive cliff
Looking downstream on the Petewawa River
Day 3: Crooked Chute to The Natch & Back
Another awesome sleep and this time I didn’t hear any mice. I was up early today and it was still a bit dark outside. It was cool and very damp so once again fired up that woodstove. I don’t let the stove burn through the night unless its really cold – I find the cabins can easily become too hot which makes sleeping very a uncomfortable experience. I made a mug of coffee and while the sun came up I decided to head outside for some photos. It looked to be a very promising day – foggy just like day one but beyond the fog was blue sky! I was really glad I opted to save the daytrip to the Natch for today. With the weather looking as it did, I didn’t want to waste any time getting on my way. I had a repeat breakfast today – pancakes topped with bacon and syrup but I was getting antsy as I made it – I just wanted to go! I wolfed down breakfast as though I hadn’t eaten in a month and then began to prep the cabin for my absence. I must admit it makes me slightly uncomfortable to leave all my stuff behind for several hours – so I left a note. It was simple and just said they look around all they want – but please don’t mess with my stuff. With a lunch prepared for the cliffs I locked the cabin door and placed the boat in the water – I was off to the Natch!
At shortly after 2pm I decided it was time to leave this awesome place and head back to the cabin. I snapped a few photos of the lower section of the river as I made my way to the first portage. I wasn’t sure what to expect on this trail as I skipped it on the way here. The landing was as rough as any other in the area, and though the trail was short at 175m, it was just as rough as the Upper Natch Rapid trail. It was over in about ten minutes and a short paddle had me at the next portage. Once again, I made my way through this goat trail of a portage and eventually reached the other side. As I passed the campsite on the north shore, I made a mental note that any of the campsites between Rollaway Rapids and The Natch would suit me just fine. By 2:30pm I was at P820 around Rollaway Rapids. More tough going but it was manageable. As I launched back onto the Petewawa River I realized I would probably have to take the last portage as I didn’t feel like expending the extra energy trying to paddle up the swift. As I reached the widening of the river with the grassland island and dead pine, I decided to follow the opposite shore for a change of scenery. When I arrived at the landing for the P165 around the swift it was quickly evident this trail does not see much use. I doubt many people travel upstream and because the swift is so gentle, most probably just run it downstream. The trail was flat and easy to navigate, I was relaunching at the other end in mere minutes. I made my way back around the bends and the cabin came into sight. As I pulled up, the lock was still in place and it looked as if no one came through this way.
Stretch of the Petewawa River between Rollaway Rapids and The Upper Natch Rapids
I landed at the trailhead and tied the boat to a tree. With my camera bag, nalgene and some snacks I made my way up the trail. A quick stop at the spring but I couldn’t find it and I didn’t want to waste any time. I followed the very faint trail and at times you are literally climbing up giant boulders, wondering if you’re actually on the trail. At some point, I lost the trail entirely and the area here is rough. Giant boulders with giant gaps between them – no place to screw around. I tried to locate the trail again but I lost it. I decided I was going to get to the top one way or another so I made a lateral move to get away from the rocks. I clambered about 150m away from the river and the boulder garden then found a pine-needle covered forest. It was a very steep incline but climbable. I had to stop a couple times as it was really tough on the ankles. Eventually, I made it to the top of the hill but was several hundred meters away from the cliff face. The forest up here was pretty clear, so making my way to the edge was a simple task. As I got within a couple dozen meters of the cliff, I reconnected with the actual trail and could see it as it heads down the hillside. I couldn’t see the portion where I lost it from my vantage point, but I was happy to know it was here and I could use it to get back down.
I love seeing smoke exit the chimney of a cabin - makes it so inviting
One of the many very rocky campsites in this area
Did I mention how incredibly scenic and surreal the lower section of the Petewawa River is? I believe it’s much more scenic than the Barron Canyon and I’d rather camp here without question. It’s rugged and remote. The campsites are all multi-level chunks of Canadian shield with spectacular views. I suspect the fishing is amazing too, though I haven’t tried. As I approached the two campsites right before the Natch they immediately made ‘the list’. I didn’t even care what the campsites looked like, the view alone of the Natch cliffs was enough to convince me. I checked them out anyway and both are very suitable for camping. Big sites, great tent pads and that view – just wow. Because I was able to skip two out of the four portages, I made it from the cabin to the base of the Natch Cliffs in just over an hour – which was great because it left me plenty of time to hike up to the top of the cliff.
Very calm back at the Crooked Chute pool
It didn’t take long and I approached the roaring rapid known as The Upper Natch Rapids. This is a class IV rapid and I wanted nothing to do with it. I landed at the portage and knew I was in for a bit of a shit show on this trail. The landing is steep and very close to the beginning of the rapid. I managed to get everything up to flat ground and loaded up for the 275m trail. This is the worst one of them all. Not kidding. This trail will have you hiking up a rocky trail, on a ledge the entire time (overlooking the 2nd campsite on the trail – which is a really nice site by the way) and a boardwalk over a gap of rocks – one side you fall between two chunks of Canadian shield, the other side you fall down 20ft onto the campsite below – it’s just insane. I was thinking ‘is this for real?’ the entire time, wondering if perhaps it was the ‘old trail? (what old trail?). Once you clear the rocky cliff ledge you are then sent up and down, then up and down throughout the pines and rocks. It’s truly the most intense portage I’ve ever walked. The landing isn’t much better – a boulder garden leading down a hill to some jagged rocks at the waters edge. I was glad it was over – took me almost 10 minutes to cross it. I launched back onto the river and approached the Lower Natch Rapids. Now, I don’t know if the map is mislabelled (it rates this as a Class IV rapid like the Upper Natch Rapids) but it was nothing more than some fast-moving water and a small swift at the end. I wondered if there was some part I wasn’t seeing, but when I realized the portage is only 305m I looked beyond and could see the calm river continue. ‘It must be mislabelled’. I decided to go for it and just as I suspected, it was nothing more than quick flow with a swift at the end. No rapids or obstacles to navigate.
Thick fog over the Crooked Chute pool
Around the corner and this is your greeting - welcome to The Natch!
One last look back at the cliffs
tr 39: Crooked Chute Cabin & The Natch
Looking downstream on the Petewawa River
Lower section of Rollaway Rapids on the Petewawa River
Crooked Chute to the Natch & Back
Blair Fraser's Memorial.
On the right you can see the original location where it was cut & tossed in the river by vandals
Another beautiful start to the day
Getting wood ready for both the indoor and outdoor fire
I was back at the cabin by 3pm and spent a little time processing a few extra logs I left behind from day one. I wanted to have a big fire for my last night here. I poured a couple drinks and eventually got around to making dinner. Tonight I had beef pot roast on a bed of mashed potatoes – it was really tasty and I enjoyed it by the fire. I didn’t do much else this evening, just relaxed and kept feeding logs into the fire. A few more drinks and the stars came out – or at least I think they did. I was getting tired from my travels and decided to hit the sack. I washed up and secured the cabin for the night.
The Upper Natch Rapids - yeah, no thanks
The 'MartinG' shot - he was here a few weeks earlier and took the same photo
When you get to within 10m of the cliff ledge the trees thin out, the breeze kicks up and you can see the cut of the gorge formed by the river below. You walk out onto this giant boulder - a boulder that when viewed from the bottom looks like it could give out at any moment, and the view it just outstanding. No matter what time of year you visit this place, you will be rewarded. I sat there on the rock for a good twenty minutes, both catching my breath and taking in the sights. It’s amazing up here. A sat down on the big precarious rock to make lunch – a simple wrap with salami & mustard. I couldn’t imagine a better spot to eat lunch and I was so grateful for the weather – much warmer and nicer than yesterday. I stayed up here for just over an hour then made my way down the trail. I was happy to be taking the official trail because perhaps I would see the spring I missed on the way up. The trail is just as challenging to follow on the way down as it is on the way up. As I made my way down I came to a pretty neat lookout at the halfway mark. I took a short breather there and continued on, eventually reaching the section in which one has to climb down several house and car-sized boulders. I got back to the boat and still no sign of the freshwater spring.
This will give a better idea of the lower section of Rollaway Rapids on the Petewawa River
TOURduPARK